What is thread count — and why it tells a different story for wool
The simple answer first
Thread count is the total number of threads — both horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) — woven into one square inch of fabric. A fabric with 100 horizontal threads and 100 vertical threads has a thread count of 200.
The higher the count, the more tightly the threads are packed. And tighter weaving, when done with fine yarn, generally means a softer, smoother, more refined feel.
"For wool and pashmina, thread count is only one part of the story. The fineness of the fibre itself matters far more."
Why higher doesn't always mean better
This is where most buyers get misled. Some manufacturers inflate thread count by twisting multiple thin threads together and counting each twist separately — doubling the number on paper without actually improving the fabric. The weave looks dense on the label but feels no different in the hand.
True quality comes from three things working together: thread count, fibre quality, and weave construction. A 300-count sheet made from low-grade cotton will feel rougher than a 180-count sheet made from long-staple Egyptian cotton.
✕ Myth
The higher the thread count, the better the fabric — always.
✓ Reality
Thread count only matters when the yarn quality is also high. Fibre, weave, and count all work together.
What thread count means for a Bhuttico shawl
Wool is a fundamentally different fibre from cotton. The quality of a wool shawl is measured not just by thread count but by the fineness of the wool fibre itself — expressed as "microns" or "Super" ratings (Super 100s, Super 120s, and so on). Finer microns mean softer wool, regardless of count.
At Bhuttico, our weavers in Kullu Valley use pure Merino wool and Ladakhi Pashmina — fibres that are naturally fine, lightweight, and warm. The handloom weaving process produces a thread count that is lower than machine-made fabric, but the result is a breathable, durable textile that actually improves with age and washing.
Machine-made fabric with a very high thread count can feel stiff and trap heat. A handwoven Bhuttico shawl, by contrast, breathes with your body — because the loom allows for slight natural irregularities that give the fabric life.
"Our shawls don't chase a number. They chase a feel — the kind that's been refined by 80 years of hands on the loom."
How to judge quality when buying a wool shawl
When you're buying wool — whether a shawl, stole, or jacket — here's what to actually look for:
- Fibre type first. Pure Merino, Pashmina, or Ladakhi wool will always outperform a blended or synthetic fabric at the same thread count.
- Feel it. Quality wool feels soft, not scratchy. It should drape naturally, not hang stiff. Run it against your wrist — fine wool will feel smooth, not prickly.
- Look at the weave. Handwoven textiles have a slight natural variation in the weave pattern — this is a sign of authenticity, not imperfection.
- Check the weight. Good wool is warm without being heavy. If a shawl feels very heavy for its size, it may be a denser blend rather than pure fine wool.
- Then check thread count. For wool, a thread count between 100 and 200 in a fine Merino or Pashmina weave is excellent. Don't be misled by inflated numbers.
The Bhuttico promise
Every piece we weave at bhuttico.com uses fibres sourced from the Himalayan region — Australian Merino wool and Pashmina from Ladakhi Changthangi goats. Our cooperative of over 1,000 artisan families in Kullu Valley weaves each piece on traditional handlooms, producing thread counts that reflect honest craftsmanship rather than marketing numbers.
The next time you pick up a Bhuttico shawl, jacket, or stole — don't look for a thread count on the label. Hold it. Feel the warmth. That's the number that matters.